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My perform maintenance lit up at ~42,000 miles. I looked around for the cause and discovered this forum entry. Purchased a Geno Fleetliner CCV and changed out. I think it will be OK. However, 30K is going to be my scheduled changeout from now on. Thanks everyone for you great info. R/Thomas
08 3500, Mega Cab, 6.7/6 speed, 4X4 |
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Attached are some updated pics of the install.
To answer some questions, yes the filter is still needed, look at how much oil is collected in the filter. If you have a proper delete kit, possibly would not need it (not really sure since I can not test). The mount, channel iron cut to the length of the canister with a machined slot to hold a standard screw clamp so the separator canister can come off with no issues, painted to protect from rust. At over 50K miles, the intake, inter-cooler, hoses, etc., all dry and clean as they should be. Nice insurance policy against possible CCV filter failure or leakage.
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'08 3500 HD Dually, SLT, 6.7L, 6 SPD Auto, 4.10 Axles, 4X4, Bighorn Edition Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps |
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This can is really nice. Why does the line go to the turbo? Does the turbo provide vacuum for the system? I have seen people cut the hose and route it in the air with a small air filter. That would not be a good idea if the turbo provided the vacuum. I am considering a can but wonder if the 55 dollar kit rolling smoke diesel sells to eliminate the turbo line is better? Thanks for your great write up.
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To answer your question, depends on your location. If you live in smog land, then it has to be piped back to your intake at point of possible vacuum. If you live in non-smog land, than a vent cap would work. In my opinion, $55.00 is very high for a several dollar filter and piece of hose ..... can be done cheaper.
My reason for going with that size can, is others in the past of damaged their cummins engine because of improper separator size and created a restriction that allowed gases to be build up the engine and blew. That size which is one of the largest around is the exact same 3/4" flow as the OEM pipes. Me, I do care to have crankcase gases dumping in the engine compartment so I can smell them in my vents for the cab. Hope that helps.
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'08 3500 HD Dually, SLT, 6.7L, 6 SPD Auto, 4.10 Axles, 4X4, Bighorn Edition Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps |
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Quote:
![]() Can you post up the parts listings and what not so we can duplicate this?? THanks man, great job on that install!! |
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Quote:
![]() I did post where the can was available from, here it is again: Ultimate Oil Catch Can Parts list consist of the Can, 3/4" heater hose, and some scrape metal machined up to make a bracket, a clamp.
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'08 3500 HD Dually, SLT, 6.7L, 6 SPD Auto, 4.10 Axles, 4X4, Bighorn Edition Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps |
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Thanks. You inspired me to do my own version of this .
I routed my CCV line to my air box. I blocked off the turbo line with a 3/4 plug . I used a catch can so my air filter does not get all oiled up. I know there are allot of opinions and kits to do this different ways. I chose this way because I do not want to smell the gasses venting. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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