6.7L Cummins Forum

A couple of weeks ago I finally got my front axle U-Joints and Hub Bearings changed out after only 3 years and 94,000 miles. I didn't want to change out the Hub bearings but I think when you see the U-Joints you'll know why.







Before this I had the U-joints on my rear drive-shaft start to fail so I bought some lifetime Duralast Gold U-joints that I was going to install but there was a bent yoke so I just replaced the whole drive-shaft.

I went with the Torque King U-joints from Quad4X4.com QUAD 4 x4

the following are pictures of the Torque King compared to the Duralast. The Duralast has a soft rubber seal where the Torque King has a hard plastic triple lip seal.






As you can see from the pictures the seals are gone from the OEM U-Joints and I think all the salt and salt Brine they use on the roads here when it snows is eating them up so I'm hoping the hard seal on the Torque King U-Joint will hold up..........................I hope.





The Torque king U-Joints aren't cheap but could end up saving you a lot of money not to mention work especially if you live somewhere they use road salt since there was no way to get the Hub bearings off without damaging them because they had rusted in place because Dodge/Ram doesn't install them with Anti-Seize. My next truck will be dismanteled as soon as I get it and Anti- Seize applied before the salt gets to them.(Lesson Learned)

By the way, the caps are stamped Spicer.

Attached Thumbnails

           

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

Dude, where do you get that color of paint?
Sorry, we don't get that color here in New Mexico, Salt on roads? Snow? what the heck is that. Knock on wood, i haven't seen issues with the ujionts yet, The 96 still has all of the originals in it too.
Good information to know though, thanks for the info.

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07.5 3500 Quad, SRW, 4X4, Laramie, Leathered, Dark Metallic Gray, 6.7, 68RFE, 20K Reese, Ride Rite's, 2 Viair air compressors, Bully steps, Kleinn Locomotive air horns (5 in all), Billet polished locking fuel door, 'A' pillar mount Auto Meter Pryo, PML X-deep trans pan
06 Durango 285 RL 5'er Lifted by KZ

I had just over 36,000 Miles on my 07 3/4 ton and had to have upper ball joints, lower ball joints u-joints on front axle and rear drive shaft u-joint replaced. What really ticked me off was I had to wait several days to get this done because local dealership was backed up with two other trucks to do the same thing on and some of the parts where on back order. Warranty would not cover as I was second owner and it was over the 36k. Got really mad with Dodge warranty people when they denied they had a problem. Why not put u-joints and ball joints in that you can grease- oh wait, they make money selling parts I forgot.

Sometimes when a manufacturer gets too cheap, they loose the long term business. All the American truck manufacturer's need to remind themselves if they don't provide good vehicles, we won't buy from them. Yesterday I was looking at a Chevy commercial which "compared" the operation of Ford, Chevy, and Dodge trucks on a set of stress ramps. The only pictures they showed were of the Chevy and Ford; the Ford frame moved so much it crinkled the tailgate -- they never showed the Dodge, wonder why?

Hello Cummins World! Just purchased a 2008- 3500- Laramie-Mega-4X4-4:10 rear gear- Heavy Duty SRW. Has all the bells and whistles (roof, nav, satelite DVD, etc). Found on ebay, drove 700 miles to pickup. On our way home towing our car on a u-haul dolley, experienced the dreaded "death wobble" while passing a car on a bridge @ 65 mph. Scared the living _ _ _ _ out off us. It was on a weekend so we had to baby it home (600 miles) @ 58 mph. The local Dodge dealer should be selling used Idiots insteads of Dodges. They told me it was the Bilstien Shocks. Anyway, got on the internet, found about 40 solutions (none of which really made sense). Finally realized the truck had a leveling kit under the front that severly throws off the steering geometry. Causes the front steering linkage to act like a pair sizzors--when you hit a bump, the frontend goes up higher than normal which changes the camber, forces one or both wheel off the ground and out of alignment with each other. The "Sizzor" action of the front steering linkage then counteracts with the front spings and causes the action to continue until you reach a low enough speed for the weight of the truck to overcome the stength of the spings. Dodge didn't advertise this, but the 2009 model steering linkage was changed. The solution to my death wobble was fourfold. Added the 2009 front steering parts (drag link bar, track/pan bar & tire rods=$378); removed the 2" leveling kit from the front springs; repositioned the stablizer shock so that it was level with the drag link bar; placed 65 lbs of air in front tires---Problem Solved!