6.7L Cummins Forum

I have some great news .... Now that I am over 1000 miles on the new setup, the feathering that I have noticing in the front passenger wheel with the original hubs is gone. Even though I have play in the front passenger ball joint, the wheel with the new hubs are no longer cantilevered. I am actually having the front wheels sit flat to the ground, not outside edge digging in.

Time to squeeze as much remaining mileage out of the oem tires as possible before switch to 19.5's .... Wear bar is about 1/16th inch away .... Kinda hoping for about another 2 to 3K miles.

Cheers all.

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Status update:

With several thousand miles on the clock, hand calculated mpg, I have an overall 2 MPG increase. This is not baby it, normal driving habits and nothing less than 70 on the highways and EGR plugged in. The highway miles is not flat, lots of grades, winding, traffic, etc. The last trip included some 4x4 time, which is included in the mileage calculation.

So my overall mileage (non towing) was holding steady (including 4x4 at ranches) at 13.3 and now holding steady at 15.4 (stock tires at 65psi) .... No tuner in place either.

Hope that helps. I got what I was after

Cheers.

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How does that kit compare to the dynatrac no spin kit?
Dynatrac

Nice write-up, I want to put in a set into one of my trucks one day and do a kingpin install just so I can get rid of those awful ball joints.

Morbius, Whats the spline count on the outer shaft?

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-brand spanky new white 02 sport QC, SB, 3/4 4X4 DDP stg 3 sticks, GT3782R
-soon to nuke down, black 2010 3500 Laramie CCSB, H&S Blackmaxx, DPF & EGR delete
-grey 02 Laramie LB, 3/4 4X4, edge comp, 95 fass

Mike,

Thank you, best mod done to date.

The spline count on the outer shaft is 35 ....

The difference between the two is kits is as follows:

1. spyntec has ABS sensor ring protection (PLUS)
2. spyntec has a spare parts website to get a single item (PLUS)
3. dynatrac has low profile locker (PLUS ON NON-DUALLY)
4. dynatrac requires a dually adapter if used on dually (3rd party, NEGATIVE)

Everything else is the same.

- spyntec comes standard with Mile Marker SS locker (low cost, good unit), however if you want, you can use the dynatrac low profile locker on the sypntec kit.

Both are great kits. I preferred the ABS ring protection (replacement sensors and hub are EXPENSIVE). Also I did not want to screw with adapter anymore and the dually hub is all one piece with spyntec (its heavy and solid).

A set of Carli ball joints and you will never have to worry about ball joints ever again. Less hassle than changing out the front axle. Kingpin has its pros & cons also but very durable

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Great info thanks

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2007.5 White 3500 6.7CTD 200,00KM 68RSE Auto 3.73, EGR + Cooler /DPF Deletes , Smarty S67ME level #8 , Amsoil 15W40 , Amsoil BMK21 bypass filter , Rinoliner , Isspro guages - pillar mount 3 - console mount 2 , Progate Exhaust wastegate , Flowpro dual exhaust , Flowpro Twister muffler , Mag-Hytec Diff covers F & R , Amsoil 75-110 Diff Oil , Firestone airbags , AirRaid filter box with Amsoil conical filter + sock , Roda Deaco PAS , MHP Stage ll tranny tune

Good points. I wasn't going to worry about the abs on my truck. Check into the price on the cali ball joint? Also price out the cost for the parts.

Reason why I want kingpins, its they are available at any auto part store. I was just going to buy an older chevy dana 60 front axle (I know its not the same front axle for the new trucks, its 6.5X8 hole), they are cheap cheap. Take the outer axles/hubs/knuckles. Buy a inner C for the axle and new wheel bearing, warn hubs. I probably be under $1k, for 35 spline dana 60 chevy kingpin front end, free spin. The only catch is the disk brakes caliper, as you need a special bracket.

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-brand spanky new white 02 sport QC, SB, 3/4 4X4 DDP stg 3 sticks, GT3782R
-soon to nuke down, black 2010 3500 Laramie CCSB, H&S Blackmaxx, DPF & EGR delete
-grey 02 Laramie LB, 3/4 4X4, edge comp, 95 fass

Mike,

The carli set (top & bottom, left & right) ranges around 900.00 to 1100.00.

The spyntec kit uses Dana 60 parts, they are available at your local parts store also, costs break down as follows (rough prices):

spindle bearing kit w/seal = $12.00
inner bearing = ~$40.00
outer bearing = ~$40.00
replacement dually hub w/abs = ~$550.00
35 spline stub shaft = ~$110.00
MM locker = ~$180.00

You see the prices for yourself here: Solid Axle Industries

Hope that helps.

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Its one nice kit, that adapter for the stock knuckle is one nice piece. Just throwing out other options. By the way how much was it worth? Kingpins are almost indestructable, just more maintaince as you have to lube/clean them up. I'm not a ball joint fan, you could just buy the napa premium ball joint that has the lifetime warranty. You will just have to get used to pulling ball joints out, which is easy to do.

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-brand spanky new white 02 sport QC, SB, 3/4 4X4 DDP stg 3 sticks, GT3782R
-soon to nuke down, black 2010 3500 Laramie CCSB, H&S Blackmaxx, DPF & EGR delete
-grey 02 Laramie LB, 3/4 4X4, edge comp, 95 fass

Mike,

Let's try and reduce the amount of quoting .... we can scroll up and down .... Helps keep the emails also cleaner.

There are many options, and many ways to do it. Nice thing about choice. As I mentioned in start of this thread, I was after a few key things and this specific kit/setup helped achieve that.

If you follow the various forums out there including the serious 4x4 ones, lifetime warranties are not always that great. You have take into account your time and effort to replace the part on the trucks. Not everyone is going to do it themselves so shop time cost has to be accounted for also. If you do it yourself, your time is worth something also, that has to be accounted for. Warranties are not going to pay for the labor to replace. For ball joints, take your local shop rate and times that by 2.5 hour per side (longer if they they are not a truck experienced shop). That will show the costs. Ball joint replacement is NOT that easy to do depending on age and amount of rust and if a dually or not, its very time consuming and a lot to take apart and re-assemble. You also have to account for the potential of damaging a part or seal in the process that will have to be replaced ....

The cost of a product that is proven in a vary rough environment vs a product not proven and most likely made in china with a life warranty vs labor is just not worth it in my book. Honestly, I have better things to do with that time. Carli is the not the only doing this, Dyntrac does also, however not yet proven like Carli.

You have to be careful when you mention cheaper, when you add up ALL the real costs, many times it costs the same or really is more. I deal with this daily at work. These kits are not cheap and its a serious investment so I think you want to make sure you do it once.

I do not disagree about kingpins, used them a lot and serious off road usage truck still to this date use kingpins. A lot of us here are not into altering the major structural design of the truck, just swapping the components to make the design work as it should.

I hope that helps and explains the thinking process I went through a bit further.

Cheers.

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