6.7L Cummins Forum

Howdy all,

I have set forward on my next project for the truck, replacement of the crappy factory hub to standard manual hub using standard size bearings and seals ....

(what it looks like assembled)


(the new dually front hub)


The setup retains the ABS sensor (fully sealed), wheel placement at the factory point.

Key feature I wanted, unlocking the front hubs so less drag and moving parts while driving on the freeway. When the hubs are locked, in cab controls works as normal. Unlocked, you can do 4WD low on pavement and not have the front end bind up ! Other feature I wanted, safer more durable front hubs. If you seen the factory one removed, scary stuff.

Will keep you all posted on the progress. I will do the install this weekend

Cheers.

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Update ...

Opened all the boxes to take inventory, inspect everything to make sure no damages and dry fit the whole setup together on the bench first.

Here are some pics of the contents ....

(kit content, photographed only one side):




(the dually hub ... impressive piece of machining work)

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Hello Everyone,

Got it one side installed (driver side is almost done, will finish in the morning). The u-joint I got where the wrong size so I had to re-install the factory one. The passenger side had two caps where the grease turned brown, so popped out all the pins, washed everything and found the roller pins and bearing surface to be in good shape. Greased everything and assembled it all back together. That shot 2 hours since I dropped the pan with all the pins and had to start over ...

Here are pics of the passenger installation:









The wheel get spaced out about 1 inch on each side. The factory hub cabs no longer fit. I need to bore out a matching hole so the hub can come through .... Will do it later after breaking them in. I did measure everything and once bore out, the hub will stick out less than 1/4 inch fron the hub cap. Another though is use a hub cab from a Ford F350 which comes with a hole in the center the same size

The hubs when full assembled weigh a ton and somewhat a bear to into place. But once done, they spin very very freely compared to OEM !

Only draw back I find with this setup, the rotor is pinned in the back and locked into place. Once installed and the bolts pressed into place, that rotor is going nowhere. To remove it to replace the rotor with a new once will requiring pressing the bolt/pins back out. That's fine, I can deal with that.

Cheers.

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Howdy Everyone,

Finished up early this morning and we went for 70+ mile test drive (highway, city and country roads), and VERY pleased with the results !! The hub center point external temp was 99.2 driver side and 98.7 passenger side (which means the bearing torque was right) and at 70 MPH, tracks nicely (no pulling left or right, which means bearing torque was right).

Steering much easier (as expected), rolls easier (you can spin the wheels on the hubs easy) and now can 4wd low in 2 wheel drive to move heavier stuff easier.

Here is what came off the truck that was factory installed:

(Overall pics):


(original yoke):


(original hub):




(bearing section measured, only 2 5/8 inches and the bearings are back to back, the dually adapter hangs off that ..... not good !):


(bearing spacing on the new hub):


(dually adapter):


(overall dry fitted, rotor missing. rotor goes on the hub before the dually spacer):


Kit was supplied by the following folks:

EMS Offroad
1640 Continental BLVD
Danville, PA 17821

570-437-4200

EMS Offroad

Their response and fast service has been great. Very pleased with them and would do it all over again. When I purchased the kit, it came with free shipping which was excellent (fast and no damages).

Only special tools I had to get which I did not have was a 1 11/16 inch socket for the factory hub and a u-joint c-press (would recommend using a hydraulic press !).

Tools needed: 5 mm hex bit, 13, 15, 18, 22 mm wrench and sockets, 1 11/16 socket, medium size pry bar, torque wrench, 2 1/2 4 point spanner socket, flat blade screw driver (small and medium), needle nose pliers.

Other tools, u-joint c-press or hydraulic press (be careful), bearing packer, grinder with cut off wheel.

Cheers and hope this helps others. If you have questions about the install or anything else related, do not hesitate to ask !

Cheers.

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Hello Everyone,

Here is the last piece done and installed, modified hub caps:







Turns out the Mile Marker hubs are flush with the edge of the dodge hub caps when install .... SWEET ! I measured wrong and forgot to take into account that the hub caps sit about 1/2 inch off the wheel ....

Turns out that on the inside of the hub cap there is dead center a tab left behind from the injection molding, cut it off, center punched it, drilled a pilot hole to make sure is was center and then used a 4 1/2 hole saw. De-burred all the edges, sanded it smooth using a proper range of sand paper and done.

I have a trip coming up that will be about 2000 miles, will post mileage report then.

One thing I noticed is that the front end now on pot holes is less jerky and less thumping. I smoother and more solid feel, guess the wheel now has proper positioning and loading.

Cheers all.

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Oh, BTW, what is the torque of the lug nuts .... look closely are the dually lug nuts, its stamped on each one ...... 140 lbs

Had my bi-focal's on and what a surprise .....

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Awesome write up , I was looking into this upgrade also , thank you for posting

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2007.5 White 3500 6.7CTD 200,00KM 68RSE Auto 3.73, EGR + Cooler /DPF Deletes , Smarty S67ME level #8 , Amsoil 15W40 , Amsoil BMK21 bypass filter , Rinoliner , Isspro guages - pillar mount 3 - console mount 2 , Progate Exhaust wastegate , Flowpro dual exhaust , Flowpro Twister muffler , Mag-Hytec Diff covers F & R , Amsoil 75-110 Diff Oil , Firestone airbags , AirRaid filter box with Amsoil conical filter + sock , Roda Deaco PAS , MHP Stage ll tranny tune

Final result from our trip based on 65 PSI of air in all tires, tires nearly shot (time for 19.5 rims and tires), driving habits not changed (highway speeds over 70), A/C on the whole time, including stuck in 2 hours of bumper to bumper traffic each way (argh!) ..... gained nearly 1.5 MPG (combined Ccity & highway) over existing. That makes me very happy. We did our trip with a little less than 1 tank each way (465 miles each way with no warning lights ever coming on, still stock tank).

Overall hub temps was 118.7 passenger and 119.2 driver side ...

Since now the hubs are properly loaded against the length of the spindle, I find my front ball joints are shot. The passenger side has more 1/16 inch of play ..... Explains the funky tire wear. Time for a set of Carli's ....

Hope that helps.

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Was this because the hubs were not properly loaded against the length of the spindle

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2007.5 White 3500 6.7CTD 200,00KM 68RSE Auto 3.73, EGR + Cooler /DPF Deletes , Smarty S67ME level #8 , Amsoil 15W40 , Amsoil BMK21 bypass filter , Rinoliner , Isspro guages - pillar mount 3 - console mount 2 , Progate Exhaust wastegate , Flowpro dual exhaust , Flowpro Twister muffler , Mag-Hytec Diff covers F & R , Amsoil 75-110 Diff Oil , Firestone airbags , AirRaid filter box with Amsoil conical filter + sock , Roda Deaco PAS , MHP Stage ll tranny tune

I believe so. As you can see in pics above, the OEM hub bearing length is only 2 5/8 inches for such a heavy dually wheel with dually spacer. This places additional stress against a goofy/poorly designed ball joint on top. Before the change out, never felt the free play because of how it was cantered levered out 5+ inches. Changed everything out, now I feel the free play ..... I can understand the stupid design of the front hub, but the stupid low cost design of the front ball joints makes no sense to me considering the cost of the vehicle. Never had to replace any ball joints on my Japanese truck .....

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