6.7L Cummins Forum

Hello Everyone,

I have a couple tips for those owning 2007.5 and above 4X4 truck using a AAM 9.25 front axle .....

1. When changing the front the wheel bearings to a full floater, I strongly suggest using a retaining clip on the replace axle shaft. On the Spyntec kit that I used, it already had the grove machined in (you can see it here at the top):


On this a 35 spline count, it uses a 1.5 inch retaining clip. If you do not use it, what will happen is the shaft slides back towards the axle and under certain conditions the shaft will turn and you will hear a squeak sound, exactly the same sound as a bad u-joint !! Remember, your current hub has a nut torqued to around 250 lbs to keep the shaft aligned and to hold the bearings together.

Why the Spyntec kit does not have this clips is beyond me, but the cost is $8.00 worst case and worth every cent !!

If the kit you get does not have that grove, have one machined in.

2. If you replace your front u-joints on your AAM 9.25 axle, get the following type:

Click on the link: QUAD 4 x4

The factory original are junk. The seals do not work, they fail very easy. Most replacements have seals that are exposed and over time open up allowing moisture/dirt to enter. Spending big bucks on some like Spicer also not worth it.

This AAM joints have a protected press in place seal. They are truly sealed unit with measure amount of grease in cup and balanced. When they are pressed into place, and set correctly, they done for VERY long time ! Costs $114.00 from quad with installation instructions and very well worth it.

3. Final tip ..... When installing new u-joints, most people and I most will forget one very important function ...... setting the joint and clips.

Just because you pressed your joints in, does mean they will stay in place ! Especially those pesky C clips. To make sure you clips are loaded correctly, you have to set them. If you do not have the tool do it, you can use a vise and soft brass hammer. Once done, you c-clips will be locked against the yoke and the all the cups will be equally spaced apart allowing the u-joint to move freely and be centered in the yokes.

Hope this helps others. As I replaced my front u-joint over the weekend, and went into autopilot, my honey was in the shop asking all sorts of questions (see usually steers clear of the shop) and thought it would be good to share it with others.

Cheers.

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Beat me to it, great post. About the only thing I can add is that Quad 4X4 aren't selling the QU40765 U Joints. They are now selling the

Quote:

Torque King® Axle U-Joints for 2003-up Ram 2500 and Ram 3500. Ultra-strong Universal Joints feature super-thick cold-forged cross with thick-wall journals for maximum strength, plus the triple lip cup seals are the ultimate for keeping grease in and water or other contaminants out. Assembled in U.S.A. using both domestic and imported components.

I have a couple being sent since I found out the hard way that all of the replacement U joints at your local parts Store are junk and only guaranteed for 2 years. If you've ever tore your front end apart it's not something you want to do every couple of years so these U Joints will be worth it. I also included the TSB4597 that details the replacement of the U Joints.

Attached Files

tsb4597 ujoints.pdf (1.16 MB, 43 views)

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

Quad still sells them, they are currently on out of stock. One of the few web sites that actually updates inventory status !! Really great people to work with. Torque King is good also, it seals the exact same way and same product (we all know how the game is played ) If you can get the AAM version, go for it, cheaper and will perform for what the axle can do. What is the MOST important thing is that pressed seal, that will determine the life of those darn joints.

That T4009 yoke tool is worth every cent to have. Makes it a breeze to work with u-joints and no fear of bending the yoke, even when using in it in a hydraulic press.

On page 2 of the posted PDF, is what I was talking about in setting the clips and centering the joint. However I would not use a hammer like shown, I like to use my press, easier faster and consistent pressure/positioning. If you do use a hammer, use a soft one like I mentioned and if you see the outside edge of the c clip lift, that mean too much pressure !

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Squid,

Can do me a favor, when get the Torque King joints, can you photograph one in detail for me ? Be careful to keep the cups align to the ends they came on. They measured amounts of grease and if you mix them up, will cause early failure. I would like to see about those units.

Really appreciate it.

Cheers.

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You bet and I also have some Duralast Gold from Autozone for comparison and I'm also doing a real world U Joint write up for the site but with only 2 hours a day and the occasional snow storm, waiting on parts. tools, etc, it's going slow.

Guess I should have called about the U Joints because the way it was wrote it lead you to think they had stopped carrying them and were now going with Torque King. Oh well, I really need to get my truck back on the road so I wouldn't have waited any way.

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

since we are talking about the front end, how many have heard a ticking noise? I don't feel anything but I can hear when the window is down, anyone any Idea?

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07.5 Dodge 3500 6.7L QC Dually 4X4. S&B Ram Intake, H&S Mini Max, EGR, DPF delets and SouthBend DD3250 clutch

Yup, check your U-Joints on the front end. Here's what I found after I heard clicking. Ram Heavy Duty Upgraded U-Joints

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10