6.7L Cummins Forum

I am the second owner of a 2007.5 3500 dually. The brakes seem to fade pretty bad with a trailer. The pads seem fairly new so I am wondering if the are just cheep and inadequate.

No problems here but I also live in flat land Kansas so I never really work the brakes. There are a few here who drive in the Mountains that may be able to shed some light on how they drive since I've not heard any of them complain.

What are you towing and does it have it's own brakes?

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

I go over the mountains with my trailer and have no brake problems. I adjust the trailer brakes, adjust the controller, and use the exhaust brake. Do you think maybe you have a little air in the lines?

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2008 Dodge 2500HD 6.7L 4X4 Laramie
Edge insight, Amp tailgate step, 4" Boss Bars, rear air bags with compressor, spray in bed liner

I've noticed the same thing towing a trailer without brakes...They never really go away but just don't feel as firm....Use your exhaust brake in tow/haul and the problem will be gone.

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7.5 3500QC 6.7CTD 68RFE Build date June 2007
Superchips tuner 3808, Boost/EGT Laser Gauge, Airaid cold intake

No issues with mine. I do most all of my towning in the mountains.

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07.5 3500 Quad, SRW, 4X4, Laramie, Leathered, Dark Metallic Gray, 6.7, 68RFE, 20K Reese, Ride Rite's, 2 Viair air compressors, Bully steps, Kleinn Locomotive air horns (5 in all), Billet polished locking fuel door, 'A' pillar mount Auto Meter Pryo, PML X-deep trans pan
06 Durango 285 RL 5'er Lifted by KZ

I haul a 24ft goosneck cattle trailer most of the time. It has ele brakes and I use tow/haul and the e-brake. I pulled the rear wheels last night and the passenger side rotor is scored and squealing. I will have to see if it can be turned once I figure how to pull the axel shaft to get it off. I think I am going to seek out some better quality pads to put all around.

Be careful on the pads.

People do not realize is that pads and rotors really need to be matched. Putting high quality pads will do no good if the rotor is not spec'd for it. When looking into alternate, speak the manufacturer of the pad and seek advice. I have seen and dealt with people vehicles that have had installed super brakes pads to only fry the rotor in 1/2 the time and loose braking due to fade and burn. Worst one I have seen was the braking was extended by another 50ft when the pads where hot because of the fade. The pads where for racing and required cross drill rotors to dissipate the heat and dust.

The truck with proper brakes and trailer (with proper setup) should stop with no issues at all. Our truck at max load times stop in nothing flat for its weight class (king pin with propositional trailer braking system) .

Cheers,
Roberto

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Agree, I always go with OME replacement parts on the brakes...I've seen problems with other brake parts...I've had rotors turned only to warp again...Turn the same rotors again with OEM brake parts and no problem. I am a retired mechanical engineer and so I've analyzed this problem...I know who and how my rotors were turned...and, having turned them twice, they would be more suspect to warp from internal stresses the second time...IMHE

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7.5 3500QC 6.7CTD 68RFE Build date June 2007
Superchips tuner 3808, Boost/EGT Laser Gauge, Airaid cold intake

Ditto. On my 96 with all of the brake system issues that that model had, like Warping rotors, short pad life and over all poor braking. I did extensive research on after market brakes. The conclusion is: Crossdrilled rotors (preferably directional) and "HD" pads by the same manufacture. I chose to go with the "NAPA" brand (United brake) because of the availability and the selection, not to mention the price ($98 each, list was $209). They told me (United brake engineer) that there are several different levels of quality of rotor, Kind of you get what you pay for. The OEM is mid road as far as quality, the Auto Zone 'El-Cheepo's' are at the bottom of the line and are most prone to warp and glaze espesially when you do not match the pad with the application, too hard and the rotor wears out , too soft and the pad fails. I ultimately used 1 ton Chevy HD pads (they were .050" thicker but exactly the same mount/backing plate) I towed very heavy most of the time and got 50,000 miles from a set of pads and no rotor warp (OEM was less than 5,000 miles, 11 times under warranty they were replaced). OEM is also matched to the vehical application but be aware there are OEM 'El-Cheepo's' "You get what you pay for".

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07.5 3500 Quad, SRW, 4X4, Laramie, Leathered, Dark Metallic Gray, 6.7, 68RFE, 20K Reese, Ride Rite's, 2 Viair air compressors, Bully steps, Kleinn Locomotive air horns (5 in all), Billet polished locking fuel door, 'A' pillar mount Auto Meter Pryo, PML X-deep trans pan
06 Durango 285 RL 5'er Lifted by KZ

Having said all this, if the rotors are original oem, I'd go with Dodge oem pads. Garlic put it well, not all replacement brake systems are created equal.

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7.5 3500QC 6.7CTD 68RFE Build date June 2007
Superchips tuner 3808, Boost/EGT Laser Gauge, Airaid cold intake