6.7L Cummins Forum

you are the MAN

Great video, thanks for the effort. It'll make finding that fitting easier.

Thanks spaceace had to watch your video again but finally found it. Did you ever wonder why there are not grease fittings on the other u joints????

Can't tell you how impressed I was with the G rated narration because mine sure as heck wasn't.

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

Im a new owner of a 2008 2500 and I've been trying to find this fitting and couldn't. Now that I know where it is I'll tackle that job on the next oil change. Good job on the Utub vidio.

I would to mention something about drive shafts .... they are all balanced however the balancing is done many different ways.

The issue with older 2 piece shafts that dodge had pre 2007.5 was balanced a whole unit (minus the yokes at the far ends). When you replaced the u-joints on those and especially in the center section, you had to make dang sure you got it all put together exactly the same or you would be in world of hurt. Another thing with drive u-joints, especially the multi-part ones, you had to make sure the u-joint is centered to the yoke and drive shaft. They DO NOT center on their own, this is something people do not realize and do not do. Also cheap shops do not do it either because its time consuming. Watching a drive shaft come up via the floor pan at highway speed is a something else, you will wet yourself no matter what !

The ali drive shafts we have are balanced as a separate unit, it does not have the yoke attached when doing so. Good high quality u-joints are balanced. There is a reason why on non grease-able ones have measured amounts of grease in each cap and clearly state NOT to mix them up.

The problem we have with the ali drive shafts is that you CAN NOT press the joints in/out with conventional means even if the plastic injection was not done. The yoke portion is way too soft. It requires a special saddle tool that presses the caps in and out via the u-joint body with the yoke section being pressed into a special jig to prevent it from bending. You can try doing it, however I will guarantee you will bend something and will knock it out of balance. Manufacturer(s) that makes these shafts up and press in the u-joints do so with a special spacer block that goes into the yoke preventing it from bending and keeping everything square.

Those folks having had success with replacing the u-joints have done so by cutting the u-joint body apart then pressing the caps out using a homemade jig after the cap where heated with a torch to melt the plastic.

Any of you out there that has done u-joints on steel shafts and yokes will know how easy it is to bend the yoke when the is stuck and will not move, imagine that being a 1000 times easier on the ali ones we have in the 2007.5 and above trucks ! It amazes my how delicate these are yet how much horsepower they can take at the truck pulls and not twist into a pretzel.

Hope that helps.

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Morbius that is a great write up! good solid info, but my question to you is, So when the u joints go bad on my drive shaft do I take it to the dealer and get raked over the coals to have them replaced or do you have a better idea seeing as how the tools you speak of are sure to be very spendy.

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08 6.7L engine NOT STOCK, 6 speed auto, 2 inch leveling kit with 285/70/17 Toyo Open Country AT, 3.73 rear end, SLT package, 22MPG@70MPH , RBP fuel additive.

None of the dealerships in my area will change the rear U-Joints, they just swap out the driveshaft.

Call around and see what the shops in your area say and let us know.

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

Something in our area, just shaft swap. That is actually a good thing since I would not trust them to do this kind of work on ali ! Our dealers however are more than happy to sell you the replacement joints which makes no sense whats so ever. The joints are very nice, real heavy duty and very high quality.

I am trying to be straight up and honest with folks, not trying to discourage anyone from anything. I have seen a few folks try this, get in over their heads for what ever reason and be without a truck for a week or two. Working with Ali is way different than working with steel or cast iron parts. C clamp style tool, hydraulic or arbor press just does not do it when its been in service. Bent my fair share of parts on high performance exotic sport cars.

Here is a tool that does it the right way and supports the yoke correctly (nice video on the site showing how its done):

Tiger Tool - Products - 20503 - Automotive Universal Joint Kit

I have used the tiger tool and works like a charm even better than a press since you set it up on a work bench real easy, however I would say is still questionable on the ali yoke.

I would talk Squid's advice and call around. Specifically ask if work on ali drive shafts and yokes. Lots of axle and drive shaft shop specializing in ali drive shafts now a days. The option is also available to purchase a replacement drive shaft and swap yourself.

So sorry, this is one of those items there is no cheap safe solution.

BTW, great video, my would not have been "G" rated !

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I agree it is a pain in the rear to lube this darn thing. Why didn't Dodge put a standard grease pip on it? No one knows but Dodge and I think they aren't telling. Good luck with your new (to you) truck. Mine has run very well for the 4 years I've had it and I hope to run it for at least 5 more years then I'll trade it for a new spoofed Dodge --after I win the lottery, anyway.