6.7L Cummins Forum

Thought I would share the FS-2500 install project on our 3500 truck .... Lots of pictures, so I hope it helps. This goes in part with my other posts regarding bypass filtration experiences and post injection process.

Will start off with the contents of a FS-2500 kit for a 6.7L which was purchased at source in this post:

CLICK HERE TO VIEW: http://www.cumminsownerz.com/f45/bypass-filters-data-points-876/#post5063

With replacement filters available from this post:

CLICK HERE TO VIEW: http://www.cumminsownerz.com/f45/bypass-filters-data-points-876/#post5065

To read about how well this kit performs vs the competitor based on actual lab testing and measured against flow ratings with efficiency factor, read this post:

CLICK HERE TO VIEW: http://www.cumminsownerz.com/f45/bypass-filters-data-points-876/#post5022

Onto the kit content:

Overall kit pic

no drill bracket that goes onto the frame:

the filter housing itself (very heavy and built like a tank):

top of the housing (this is the part that bolts to the frame bracket):

filter housing opened:

filter itself .... note that its 6.5 inches long and 3.75 inch across, rather large when you get to actually hold one:


replacement fill cap (machine ali, all one piece):

hoses, stainless braided with nylon protection wrap:

all the fittings and extra seals:

More to come ....

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Installation docs ....

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Installation docs, second section:




More to come .....

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Looks like a very well built peice and its nice that it bolts right on. I just installed a single filter amsoil by-pass system under my airaid intake and fed it from the 1/8 in plug closest to the passenger fender and it was a very tight fit. I used a compact 1/8" npt 90along with the 1/8" to -4 fittings. The plug closest to the motor looked a little easier to access but I had the fitting to make the outside feed work.Good luck.

Something I found interesting on the FS-2500 kit .... It comes with a set of plugs to keep in the vehicle that shuts off oil supply to the filter in case of leak. You can see that here (click on the link) FS-2500 Bypass Install , Items 1 and 3 of the 3rd page. Work on either end of the supply line (at the engine side or bypass filter end).

Nice to thing to have if you ever been in that situation ! I have and I wish I'd had some plugs to seal things off and make it a service area.

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I put the old plug and a wrench in my glovebox just in case I get a leak. I used -4 line and aeroquip reusable fittings and made custom length lines. I use this type of line on my hot rod and have never had a leak (knock on wood). Looking forward to some pics of the finished install.

Got the kit installed, but before I post more pics, confirming a few things with FS2500 crew to make its all correct. I have to say this, gotta love kit when the mounting brackets are designed to take into account the wiring harnesses next to the bolt hole it has to use !! The bracket slipped into place on the frame with no issues at all and was built to go around the 2 wiring harness that would have been in the way. Did not have to move anything.

More to come soon.

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So everything installed, defective canister replaced (found a bad weld joint), everything tested and working as it should.

Here are the install pics ....

Passenger side frame rail install (no drill kit):


What can not see in the top and this pic, is that the frame bracket supplied stands off the frame by 3/4 inches. It allows the sensor wire harness for the DPF to stay exactly where it is and the bracket goes around it.

The oil lines are protect by the bracket that holds the cab mounts.


Here is the oil line routing. The hoses are exact length and its all falls into place. It was real easy to install with the passenger wheel well liner removed.


Oil return line in and cap. Standard setup that everyone is doing. However the FS2500 cap is solid machined material and heavy. Much nicer than the others that I have dealt with.


Does not matter how low you go, still hit the liner under the hood. However that area that it does hit, has a void behind it. So from the liner to the actual hood, 3/4+ inch gap. The impression in the liner is about 3/8 inch deep .....


Since all the lines in this kit are braided stainless, all the ends are higher pressure crimped, so it makes for a very clean look and plenty of clearance. Those of us that have pre 2009, have to rotate the water hose clamp a little to clear the wrench on the new fitting (it will move with a finger pressure, no tools needed). We are only talking about a 1/2 inch. On the 2009 and above, Cummins remove the clamp ....


Nice thing I found about this kit, the filter housing is one BIG dang heat sink, consider it an extra cooler !! Was not paying attention when checking for leaks and/or oil stains after a long drive and touch it ... WOW, hot is an understatement.

Based on actual lab test, I got a bypass filtration system that is greater than 99.9 percent efficient even after one hour of continuous usage. This mean the oil is being filtered all the time unlike some other brand kits.

Total install time (taking my time, having lunch, two pots of coffee and bs'ing with the queen) 2.5 hours ... Kit was complete and only had to supply a couple 18" heavy duty wire ties for extra security on the oil lines.

Hope this helps for others thinking of doing this. I consider it a must for a fully operational post injection smogged truck if are going to keep it for a long time.

Cheers all !

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I see you ran your oil lines down the turbo side of the engine. I installed my Dual-Gard AMSOil kit on the drivers side to stay away from all the heat of the turbo, exhaust manafold and exhaust.

AMSOil Dual-Gard Remote ByPass Filter Install - 2007.5 Dodge RAM 3500 6.7L Cummins Diesel

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CUMMINZ NC
2007.5 CTD, QC-DRW 3500 BFT Laramie, Smarty S-67, AMSOil Dual-Gard Bypass, Custom Line-X 4x4, 4.10LS, 988s, 68rfe, MBRP 5", Mobil Delvac. Yukon free spin, 19.5x245 G647 Goodyear's - 2006 - 37RLTSD Cedar Creek-Day Dreamer
My 2007.5 DRW Truck at www.CumminZ.com

The FS2500 comes with steel braided teflon hoses with an extra protective cover. The hoses are designed to handle far more heat than the turbo can produce before it destroys itself). The hoses are far enough down that its a mute point (would be more concerned for the other stuff inches closer to the turbo). One of these days I will post updated picks showing the cleaned up install with the line clamps, etc.

The amsoil kit comes with cloth type material covered neoprene hoses which will require replacing over time since the material will break down. Running them away from heat sources is a must if you do not want to do repairs in the middle of no where .....

I looked at you install and very nice, very clean.

Cheers.

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