6.7L Cummins Forum

I just started custom building and installing a Denton, NC built Hitch Crafter air ride HD hitch. The owner, Jason of Hitch Crafter fabricated the base unit to my specs. I have removed my 24k Signature Reese hitch (which is for sale) and fabricated a base plate that will bolt to the original under the bed rails and will also bolt to framing that I am fabricating to connect to the truck frame. Now that I have the bed drilled I can return the pictured portion back to Hitch Crafter for him to to finish putting it together and powder coat it. I plan to turn it over and Line-X the bottom for a good slip resistant fit. The hitch is built using a 32k double pivot Brinkley mount. After I get the hitch mounted I will post more pictures. The photos show that the rear mounting lugs are raised and will mount the Brinkley to the height of my Signature hitch. PM me if you are interested in the 24k Signature hitch I am now using.







Hitch Crafter website is linked on my website THE E-Z Floater

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CUMMINZ NC
2007.5 CTD, QC-DRW 3500 BFT Laramie, Smarty S-67, AMSOil Dual-Gard Bypass, Custom Line-X 4x4, 4.10LS, 988s, 68rfe, MBRP 5", Mobil Delvac. Yukon free spin, 19.5x245 G647 Goodyear's - 2006 - 37RLTSD Cedar Creek-Day Dreamer
My 2007.5 DRW Truck at www.CumminZ.com

Very nice ! Nice weld work !

So why are you bolt the unit to your bed ?

Cheers,
Roberto

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This is something not many folks know. The hitch that I was using was rated at 24k from Reese. The bed rails that they shipped me are rated at 16k. I questioned Reese about that and they said it was a legal issue. They said 2500/3500 series trucks are designed to haul loads to 15k-16k and they saw no need to build mounting brackets any heavier. Also the mounting brackets are bolted to frame and bolts do not go thru frame. I could see slight movement in brackets. I cured that with small plates being welded to brackets and re-inforced portion of frame.

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CUMMINZ NC
2007.5 CTD, QC-DRW 3500 BFT Laramie, Smarty S-67, AMSOil Dual-Gard Bypass, Custom Line-X 4x4, 4.10LS, 988s, 68rfe, MBRP 5", Mobil Delvac. Yukon free spin, 19.5x245 G647 Goodyear's - 2006 - 37RLTSD Cedar Creek-Day Dreamer
My 2007.5 DRW Truck at www.CumminZ.com

I am sorry, I missed this part "Signature" ....

When I look at those, I contacted them and had those same questions so I dropped them and went a different route. Also their pin system and locking setup was low rated.

However with a bolted setup, you can tow more, but the truck is still rated for less. Are looking at trying to tow more or just a good rugged no hassle setup ?

Cheers,
Roberto

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I wanted a beefy air ride system. The Reese was OK but the way the hitch head sat in a cradle with just 2- 1/2" pins holding it in place,,, very often it sounded like the head was moving back and forward in the cradle and made a noise I did not like. Also the only thing holding the hitch head are those 2- 1/2" pins. When you are traveling at 70mph and come off a bridge that is rough and RV wants to bounce back up and out of your bed I did not like the idea that 2 pins were all that was holding the RV in place.

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CUMMINZ NC
2007.5 CTD, QC-DRW 3500 BFT Laramie, Smarty S-67, AMSOil Dual-Gard Bypass, Custom Line-X 4x4, 4.10LS, 988s, 68rfe, MBRP 5", Mobil Delvac. Yukon free spin, 19.5x245 G647 Goodyear's - 2006 - 37RLTSD Cedar Creek-Day Dreamer
My 2007.5 DRW Truck at www.CumminZ.com

In years past, I and some friends broke the heads off those types of hitches and ripped the lock blade. Being used to how 5th wheel in semi's worked, thought they where all the same .... wrong .... That is why I went Hitchcrafter up front, I wanted the Holland/Binkleywhich is the best built around. I also like the idea that the whole head is generic and easy to replace if needed.

You will be very happy when done, I would suggest installation of Brakesmart controller also. That setup with the trucks we have, the trailer will act like it was just part of the whole setup from the start, never know its there when braking.

Cheers,
Roberto

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