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Just a couple quick thoughts. Were the fuses your removed blown? Also the device you are plugging into the power outlets to determine that they are not working have you tried them on another vehicle to confirm their operation? Before getting into wiring diagrahms I always check the little things first and maybe you have already covered these bases.
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Quote:
Thanks * I ask this because the owners manual has been known to be somewhat uninformed, ex. CCV filter has no reference anywhere except one line in the maintenance schedule. There should be a recall on the owners manual for 2007.5's w/ the 6.7! Last edited by quip000; 01-25-2012 at 05:55 AM.. |
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Quip000, It appears that slot 1 and 38 are the only fuses for power outlets. I confirmed on my truck that outlets work without the ignition on or in acc. position, actually my key wasn't even in the ignition at the time. I would start by using a test light and probing both legs in slot 1 and 38 to confirm that one leg is powered with fuse removed. Then I would install fuses and very carefully probe the very center contact inside of outlet in dash without touching the side of socket! If this checks good (test light on) then the problem has to be a loss of the ground. Next you can use an ohm meter and with the fuse removed touch the side of socket and a good ground-possibly the metal somewhere near brake pedal and check for continuity. One of these checks should lead to the problem or get you heading in the right direction. Let me know if this helps or if you need some more ideas.
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Quip000, In my post when I refer to socket to check for a good ground I mean the side of power outlet socket in your dash. I hope this makes sense. My instinct is that the ground side of your circuits are probably okay but it is easy to check so I would do it to rule that out.
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Just had a minute today. The voltage at the fuse is good. The fuse is good. In the cab I tried the center of the power outlet and the ground for the cigarette lighter and got no reading on the meter. With more time tomorrow I will double check because today was in the garage with no flashlight and in a hurry. Thanks
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Today with the truck running I re-tested the power outlet. No voltage coming through on the positive. I re-tested the cigarette lighter and it is fine. I put the voltage reader on the positive of the outlet and the negative of the cigarette lighter, nothing. I ran a cable in from the negative on the battery and first tested the cigarette lighter positive and the negative of the meter to the cable, it's all good 12v. Then the positive of the power outlet and the negative of the meter to the cable, nothing. No 12v flow to the power outlet, the fuse has been checked, I guess next is to pull out the 12v power outlet and take a look. Any suggestions for how to do that? Websites or fancy specialty tool required? I looked and see nothing except I may try to put a needle nose pliers in it, open them firmly and see if it can be unscrewed counter clock wise???
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I don't have my manual with me right now but give me a hour and I'll be back home and I'll see what I can dig up for ya......................
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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition. Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10 |
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I did have a diagram on this laptop.
__________________
2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition. Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10 |
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You might be interested in rambodybuilder.com website. They have diagrams and pictures to show the removal of cig. lighter and power outlets. It appears that the power outlet possibly doesn't require snap ring pliers unlike the cig. lighter. Also my experience with electrical problems is that it will be at one end or the other of a circuit , and my guess is the fuse panel under the hood is okay being that you don't have other electrical issues. I hope this is helpful. Let me know the outcome.
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