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I Wonder or How do I........Tutorials Ever Wondered if you could change your own oil, install that CAI, or how to find out if there are any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) on your truck? Well this is a Table of Content for our future Knowledge Base and should help to answer those questions.




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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2009, 11:55 AM
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Smile How to change the axels fluid.

I need to change the axels fluid on my 07 2500 6.7 with the 11.5axels. I went to the dealer for them to do it and they wanted $300 for both cause i have the 4 x 4. They went in detail telling me what they do and if i wanted to do it my self will cost me about $250 just for the fluid and gaskets. Have anybody done it? How much did it cost? Can someone have step by step on how to do it?
Or is it better to take it to the dealer.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:07 AM
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Hi bud, your dealership is full of idiots. First, all you have to do to change the fluids is get a pan, pull the cover off, the Gasket is reusable so after the fluid is drained you just put the cover back on and fill it up. I changed out my Diff covers with the PML and it was no big deal and I should have all the info here on the site including the torque specs for the cover bolts. I shall look when I get up and hook you up with all the links.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:16 PM
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I thought the dealers knew everything!!! Now what am I going to do
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKBliss View Post
I thought the dealers knew everything!!! Now what am I going to do
LOL, I have no problem with people making a living but this world has went to crap. Everyone from CEO's of large Corporations all the way down to the lowly Techs see lieing as just business any more and it's driving me crazy.
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Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:48 PM
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Default 9 1/4 front and 11 1/2 rear Axle Torque and Fill Specifications

Here's the torque spec and Fill level for the 9 1/4 American Axle front and 11 1/2 American axle rear.

FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA

TORQUE
Fill Hole Plug
32 N·m
24 Ft. Lbs.
-
Differential Cover Bolts
40 N·m
30 Ft. Lbs.
-
Bearing Cap Bolts
85 N·m
63 Ft. Lbs.
-
Ring Gear Bolts
140 N·m
103 Ft. Lbs.
-
Axle Nut
356 N·m
263 Ft. Lbs.
-
Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt
52 N·m
38 Ft. Lbs.
-
Adjuster Lock Bolt
25 N·m
18 Ft. Lbs.
Remember when you put the cover on to make sure you tighten the bolts a little at a time in a star pattern just like you do on a wheel so your gasket doesn't leak.

Fill Level

From Bottom of Fill Hole
6 mm (1/4 in.) ± 6 mm (1/4 in.)


REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA

Fill Hole Plug
32 N·m
24 Ft. Lbs.
-
Differential Cover Bolts
40 N·m
30 Ft. Lbs.
-
Bearing Cap Bolts
281 N·m
207 Ft. Lbs.
-
Ring Gear Bolts
237 N·m
175 Ft. Lbs.
-
Axle Flange Bolts
129 N·m
95 Ft. Lbs.
-
Adjuster Lock Bolt
25 N·m
18 Ft. Lbs.

Fill Level

From Bottom of Fill Hole
6 mm (1/4 in.) ± 6 mm (1/4 in.)
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:09 AM
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To add on what Squid said...

REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA

FLUID CHECK
Filling an axle to the bottom of the fill hole may result in an over fill condition. This can cause fluid foaming which will result in inadequate lubrication to the axle components. To check axle fluid, park vehicle on a level surface. Take a piece of wire and make a 90 degree bend two inches from the end of the wire. Insert the wire into the fill plug hole and use it like a dipstick. Remove the wire and measure from the 90 degree bend to the oil level. Refer to specification for the correct measurement.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:13 AM
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And a little extra info...

GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness.

Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load.

When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly check for:

Insufficient lubricant.
Incorrect ring gear backlash.
Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. The side gears are loaded during turns. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise.



BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.

Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source.

Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed.

Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.



LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by:

Worn U-joint(s).
Worn side gear thrust washers.
Worn pinion shaft bore.


VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by:

Damaged drive shaft.
Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
Loose wheel lug nuts.
Worn U-joint(s).
Loose/broken springs.
Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
Loose pinion gear nut.
Excessive pinion yoke run out.
Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts.

NOTE: All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair.



DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:

High engine idle speed.
Transmission shift operation.
Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
Worn U-joints.
Loose spring mounts.
Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
Excessive ring gear backlash.
Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear and listen for the noise. A mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:29 AM
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How do you know what size axle you have?
Do the 2500 and 3500 have the same?
I am asking because the rear axle fill level is different on the 10.5 (1” from the bottom of the plug) from the 11.5 (1/4” from bottom of plug).
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Old 05-14-2009, 01:42 PM
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I believe that the 11.5 inch is standard on the 2500 and 3500 gas and diesel.
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:51 PM
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Thanks for all the info.
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