6.7L Cummins Forum

What you'll need:

5 Gallon Pan
Oil Filter (There's a list here Cummins 6.7L Aftermarket Oil Filter Part Numbers )
3 Gallons of 15W40 oil.
Use only Low Ash Diesel Engine Oil meeting standard MIL-2104C or API Classification CJ-4/SM (5.9L), or CJ-4 (6.7L), or higher that meets Cummins CES 20081 Standards.
Low ash diesel engine oil is REQUIRED for the 6.7L engine, use MOPAR® MaxPro15W40 6700 Diesel DPF diesel engine oil, or equivalent.
1/2" drive ratchet and extension
93MM Oil Filter Wrench
3/8" ratchet and long extension for the filter wrench
Ft-Lbs Torque Wrench
Rubber Gloves of some sort (Oil has been proven to cause cancer in lab animals)
Funnels
Rags Diesel oil is nasty
Simple green Diesel oil is nasty

Note: If this will be your first change then you're going to need a strap or chain wrench and if you don't have that a screwdriver and hammer will work if you're careful because the oil filter is put on by a Very Big Man on Steroids. (Have a laugh on me Cummins 6.7L first oil change )
8mm or 5/16 nut driver to remove the fender liner first time only

Here we go,

1. Take the truck for a drive and get the oil warmed up. What this does is get all the the impurities off the bottom of the pan and suspends them in the oil so they drain with the oil.
2. After you get her home and parked, pop the hood and loosen the oil filler cap but leave it on the hole so bugs can't crawl in. Get your 5 Gallon pan and 1/2" ratchet and crawl under the truck. Remove the drain plug and put it in a nice safe place so it won't get dirty and go find something to do for 20 or 30 minutes to allow all the oil to drain.
3. Now retrieve the drain plug and crawl back under the truck, install it and tighten the plug to 37 ft. lbs.(50 N·m for those of you to our North and South) torque or there about.
4. Now carefully drag the pan full of oil to the front passenger side of the vehicle so we can pour the oil from the filter into it after we remove it.
5. Clean the area around the oil filter head. From the bottom loosen the filter using the filter wrench (or if this is the first time by any means that works.) then remove the filter by hand and pour the oil in it into the pan. (Dispose of the filter when possible at a collection station.)
6. Now this is very important. Get your new filter and fill it with oil. It's very important to fill the filter with oil to keep from burning up the oil pump. Rub some oil on the gasket and install the filter until the gasket just makes contact with the engine. Now this is very important. When you turn a filter by hand you turn the filter 1/2 a rotation. (Test it, put your hand out in front of you like you're going to turn a filter and you'll see) So since a filter is suppose to be tighten 3/4 of a turn after the seal contacts the engine turn it 1 and 1.2 times by hand and no more. (If you'll do this you will never have to use a filter wrench again, just your hand.)
7. Now crawl out from under your truck, get a funnel and remove the filler cap you loosened in the first step. Insert the funnel and pour all the oil but about a quart. (There's always oil left in the pan and over filling an engine isn't good.)
8. When done remove the funnel, install the filler cap and start the engine. Move the truck to a level area if not already there and then shut her down and check for leaks. After 30 minutes check the oil and if it's low add until full, waiting a few minutes each time for the added oil to reach the pan.
9. Now this is very, very, very important. Dump the oil in the drain pan back into the bottles, install the lids and take them to you local Auto Store for recycling (Filter too if they accept them).(You can tell how full the bottles are by watching the clear area they have) I live out in the country so I use the empty laundry detergent bottles too and whenever I go to the big city I load them up and drop them off.

If you're also wanting change your fuel filter see this: http://www.cumminsownerz.com/f45/cum...er-change-129/

Pictures:
Flterbottom............. Filler............Filter wheel well...Oil Bottels..........Oil Pan

Attached Thumbnails

         

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

this is exactly what i needed. i will copy it, print it, put it on my laptop and memorize it. Thanks!

Glad to help. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10

thanks, here's a little tribute to my old truck:
YouTube - big red's last ride

Nice job, felt like a old friend

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7.5 3500QC 6.7CTD 68RFE Build date June 2007
Superchips tuner 3808, Boost/EGT Laser Gauge, Airaid cold intake

I have always been partial to a synthetic blend oil in my rigs.
What is the forum's opinion on this?

Current rig is a 2008, 2500 4 x 4, 6sp auto , 6.7L with 30,000 miles.
Just purchased 72 hrs ago.

Sweet ride compared to my 97 ram.

Just did the same thing found an 08 with 4500 miles, I was thinking of running full Synthetic 0W 40 for the cold Canadian climate.

Don't forget to lube the drive shafts at every oil change.

Don't forget the CCV

as a former truck driver i used to haul bottled and canned oil from SUN refinery in TULSA, OK. for delivery to jobbers all over the USA. Every brand you can name was bottled there including JOHN DEERE, K MART, PHILLIPS, PENNZOIL, TEXACO HAVOLINE, QUAKER STATE, and so on.....