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I Wonder or How do I........Tutorials Ever Wondered if you could change your own oil, install that CAI, or how to find out if there are any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) on your truck? Well this is a Table of Content for our future Knowledge Base and should help to answer those questions.




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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2011, 07:43 PM
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Very nice, its great to hear some success stories. Just amazed at how long its been between changes ! Remember, post pics of the filter
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'08 3500 HD Dually, SLT, 6.7L, 6 SPD Auto, 4.10 Axles, 4X4, Bighorn Edition
Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps

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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2011, 10:43 PM
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filter was very black, but not completely gunked up. don't know how to post pics. it looks like the one squid posted a while back.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2011, 05:19 PM
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i have a 2008 3500 6.7l, getting ready to do my first fuel filter change. I had the truck in today and had the rear u-joint replaced and the guy asked if i wanted to replace the fuel filter as well. When i saw the price i told him i'd do it myself. He also said i had the old style fuel filter and that i would need the new style. Called the local napa and all they sell is an element for the fuel filter. A little confused on what the mechanic and napa were talking about, and wondering if anyone out there can tell me what kind of filter i need, or if i have to replace the whole housing as well
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2011, 08:33 PM
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The new style filter is a plastic canister now with replaceable elements. The old style is a fully integrated unit you replaced with replaced everything. With the new one, you need to be careful not to break the plastic housing since you will be using it.

Also the new filter is rated at 5 microns vs 7 for the older one. Geno is the best place to get the higher quality factory ones cheap. I buy them there in quantity.

You really want to replace the whole thing and go for the new version, worth the initial cost for change over.
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'08 3500 HD Dually, SLT, 6.7L, 6 SPD Auto, 4.10 Axles, 4X4, Bighorn Edition
Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps

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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 10:43 PM
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I was checking on this issue at a dealership in El Paso, TX. The old fuel filter is no longer available; the new model # is 68061633AA; the cost at this dealership is $85 for the new case. Geno's has two different listings so be careful which one you buy.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2011, 10:07 AM
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New member here.....I didn't see anyone mention anything about priming after the filter change. Is there anything specific on 2010's? Thanks Guys!
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2011, 03:23 PM
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Just turn the key to on (Not Start) and the fuel pump will fill the filter. Now the oil filter you do fill before installing it.
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2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 HD,QC, 6.7L Cummins, 6speed Auto, 4X4, Bighorn Edition.
Click for installs: Carr Steps PML Diff Cover Edge Juice with Attitude Volant Intake Hankook ATM RF10
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2011, 05:09 PM
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Squid,
Great tutorial. Just finished mine. I appreciate the effort you put into this
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2012, 08:26 PM
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I've got a 2008 3500 that I'm getting ready to do my first filter change on (the stealership has done it in the past). I'm assuming that I'll need to replace the cartridge and element the first time?

Now, notice that I can buy the assembly made by Wix from Rock Auto for a little over $49 and elements are about $28. Geno's price on the Fleetguard filters are just a little higher, but the elements aren't as cheap. Is there a good reason to go with the Fleetguard instead of the Wix?

Thanks for the instructions and the help on these questions.
Bill Lugg
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2012, 12:07 PM
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Did mine today. Was pretty easy. I went in from the side. Pulled the inner fender skirt. The WIF was easy to pull off, just pinched the bottom portion and it came right down. The Drain was another story,,,i didnt realize it is a "valve" ie,,,ie wont fall off if you loosen it all the way,,,,it will just "drop" down,,,
Removed the "stock" hose from the drain,,,,attached some longer rubber hose,,,,and loosened the drain,,,,took a few minutes to drain....

I read the directions on the Fleetguard,,,,,it says to NOT use a band filter wrench,,etc,

I had a 1/2" "wobble" socket,,,,,inserted it alone on the bottom on the canister,,,,and loosened up the canister with a 1/2 drive,,,,( no need for a long extension,,,or lying under the truck,,,,) I just layed over the tire a bit to reach in.....
Then just removed the canister by hand,,,and removed it out the side,,
New one went in easily....then just "snugged" it up with my wobble extension....

First time doing it,,,,,,
I think i could do it again in about 10 minutes,,,,,

Thanks for all the pics,,,and tips....

Try the short,,,wobble extension,,,,worked like a charm,,
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