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I Wonder or How do I........Tutorials Ever Wondered if you could change your own oil, install that CAI, or how to find out if there are any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) on your truck? Well this is a Table of Content for our future Knowledge Base and should help to answer those questions.




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Old 07-12-2009, 06:34 AM
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Default Cummins 6.7L Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) Filter Change

I can not stress how important it is to change this filter and not at the recommended 60,000 miles but more Like 36,000. If you wait until the annunciator tells you to perform service and you get a CEL with P1507 Crankcase Filter, while you're towing or continue to drive the truck, I guarantee you oil will be sucked into your turbo and then the fun will start in earnest. Cummins 6.7L Perform Service, Regeneration Required, P1507, P2A00, P2A01, P1451,P242F

Oil Soaked CCV filter


If you'll notice the tube with a hose at both ends by the Auto transmission dip stick in the above pic, that tube runs from the CCV filter to the Turbo and that's where the oil goes when the filter is saturated.

What you need:

CCV Filter: CV520010 CRANKCASE VENT FILTER ('07.5-'09) DODG1 $59.85 from Geno's Garage.

8mm or 5/16 Deep socket (Bolt on the back left is double threaded for a cable tie so a deep socket is needed.)

Step stool for a 4x4

How it's changed:

1.) Pop the hood and remove the 4 cap screws holding the front cover in place. Then remove the oil dip stick (Careful not to brush it up against anything) and then remove the front cover. Replace the dip stick.

2.) Now remove the 8 cap screws holding the CCV cover in place. (Remember that the back one on the left has a cable attached to it. To get that out of your way just pull up on the tie.

3.) Once the 8 cap screws are removed, clean around the oil filler cap, then remove it and lift the cover up and move it out of the way to the left. Reinstall the filler cap.

4.) Now lift up on the filter.

5.) Installation is just a reverse of the process. Remember to tighten the cap screws in a star pattern like you do a wheel and not too tight. There isn't a torque spec but when you remove them you'll notice that they aren't very tight.

That's it, and now you don't have to worry about mucking up your DPF and oxygen sensors.
Attached Thumbnails
cummins-6-7l-closed-crankcase-ventilation-ccv-filter-change-ccv.jpg   cummins-6-7l-closed-crankcase-ventilation-ccv-filter-change-ccv1.jpg   cummins-6-7l-closed-crankcase-ventilation-ccv-filter-change-005a.jpg   cummins-6-7l-closed-crankcase-ventilation-ccv-filter-change-ccv-001a.jpg   cummins-6-7l-closed-crankcase-ventilation-ccv-filter-change-ccv-002a.jpg   cummins-6-7l-closed-crankcase-ventilation-ccv-filter-change-ccv-003a.jpg  
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:56 AM
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I got one Friday along with Geno's maintenance kit....Squid, didn't you have something like 50K on your truck when this happen?? I say this to support your idea to do the replacement sooner.
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:31 AM
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Yup, right around 50K. I'm interested in how yours looks when you get it out.
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:13 PM
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I will be changing my real soon (@ 20K), will photograph it and post it. This will give a good visual comparison through the ranges. Would be nice to cut it open and compare the internals

Cheers,
Roberto
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:04 AM
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Thanks for posting this. Is there any way to know whether the filter needs to be changed, other than the odometer? Too bad they didn't put something like the filter minder on the airbox into the CCV plumbing.
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:41 AM
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Actually there is a way to check. From the intake tube to the turbo housing and it you see/feel an oily film in there and feel oil dripping from the return tube going to the CCV, change it asap and clean everthing.

What can be done to prevent oil from ever getting into the turbo, do what I did for my other engines (which I will do for the dodge soon), install an oil separator/trap. Nothing more than a simple canister that the CCV hose goes into one side and the other side goes back to the turbo. Since oil is heavy, it will collect in the canister and stick to the bottom, but the air will go on ..... On one my engines, I collect quite a bit that would have gone through the turbo and intercooler.

More important thing, once oil gets into the intercooler, its performance drops. You do not want that to happen ! It is expensive to get a shop to boil them clean, repaint, and reinstall. Not to mention the pain you have to remove it and put it back plus down time.
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Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, Raptor Pump, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps

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Old 07-13-2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squid View Post
Yup, right around 50K. I'm interested in how yours looks when you get it out.
PM me a ship to address and I'll send you mine...Better to compare in person and I know you can do a through analysis.
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Old 07-13-2009, 03:20 PM
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I thought the CCV is basically just a large oil separating trap. So adding another one in line is sort of putting a filter after the filter. I've never seen inside of one. If it's made of mesh you'd think you could wash it in solvent. I guess it's not worth the trouble if you only need to do it every 50-60k.

If they calibrated it JUST right they could get the oil lost through the blowby to exactly match the oil increase through fuel dilution, lol.
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Old 07-13-2009, 10:23 PM
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Yes, that is how it should work. However it is not a passive trap but a pressurized one and a large vacuum source attached so oil when the filter material is saturated will blow by. The saturation point is depended on each engine. Some will be longer, some will be short and so on. Now a separator is different than a filter, its function is to separate and keep the heavy oil at the bottom, not suspended in a filter that has to move air thought it. Its no different than folk that run multiple oil filters, or multiple water separators, etc.

My belief with modern engines is that layering some of the solutions allows you bypass some long term problems. Having dual oil filtration like main oil filter and bypass filter, you keep oil clean and help remove additional soot from the motor oil which keeps the internals ways very clean. CCV multi-filtration/separator on turbo engines helps keep the the turbo and remainder of the intake clean. Running dual water separators and filters helps keep the fuel system clean and less issues with the injectors and pumps.

Just my 2 cents on the subject

Cheers.
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Installed: CAI, HitchCrafter Air 5th Wheel, Spyntec Dually Hubs, ATS Co-Pilot, Smarty, Edge Insight, 19.5 Wheels, FS-2500 ByPass Filter, 4 Fuel Filter Setup, Raptor Pump, BodyGuard Triple Side Steps

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Old 07-14-2009, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morbius View Post
Actually there is a way to check. From the intake tube to the turbo housing and it you see/feel an oily film in there and feel oil dripping from the return tube going to the CCV, change it asap and clean everthing.

What can be done to prevent oil from ever getting into the turbo, do what I did for my other engines (which I will do for the dodge soon), install an oil separator/trap. Nothing more than a simple canister that the CCV hose goes into one side and the other side goes back to the turbo. Since oil is heavy, it will collect in the canister and stick to the bottom, but the air will go on ..... On one my engines, I collect quite a bit that would have gone through the turbo and intercooler.

More important thing, once oil gets into the intercooler, its performance drops. You do not want that to happen ! It is expensive to get a shop to boil them clean, repaint, and reinstall. Not to mention the pain you have to remove it and put it back plus down time.
Can you provide a schematic...I don't see how the canister will not have a vacuum, when connected to the system. Thanks
BTW, what is your background with diesel engines
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